All but the rear driver's window went up as normal. It went up about half way and stopped. I was able to push the button and it would go down, but it kept stopping at about the same point when going up. Finally, after about the 5th time of getting it to go up, it passed that point and made it about 3/4 of the way up and did the same thing.
The electric motor has a Thermal switch inside, if motor gets too hot thermal switch opens and cuts power to motor, when motor cools switch resets. Pushing UP the window, of course, requires more effort from the motor so it will heat up a bit, if the window is binding in its tracks or the regulator is binding then motor gets too hot and stops.
Power window motors usually have a built-in circuit breaker to prevent the motor from starting on fire, so if the fuse is blown, chances are you’ve got a wire short and not a bad motor. If the fuse is good, remove the door panel so you can check for power at the window motor connector. How to test a power window switch. Here’s the deal with

IIRC: roll windows up and turn off key. - Key on, from pass side control; window down to full stop (holding switch down all the way). - Once at bottom, window up to full stop and HOLD switch for 3 to 4 seconds. Manual says until you hear it click, but its hard to hear IMO.

To reprogram, turn the key on, go to the passenger side and with the passemger switch run the window all the way down and hold switch in down position for 2 seconds, then run all the way up and hold in up position for 2 seconds, then repeat again within 5 seconds. Should work from drivers side master switch now. Sep 05, 2009 • 2006 Mazda 6.

If the electrical system does not work, first inspect the fuses on the vehicle’s left side. Rear window wiper (Some models) 22: A/C: 3: P.WINDOW2: 25 A

Auxiliary Power relay location. This relay controls the power to the power windows in a 1999 Mazda B4000 Truck also a Ford Ranger around the same model year.
urWY.
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  • mazda 3 rear power window not working